In spite of geographical separation, (New York is almost 4,000 miles away from Milan), I consider myself lucky that I am able to watch the shows across the pond live-stream every morning on Style.com. Sitting at my desk, I have an unobstructed vantage point, being able to finally see the runway without a concern about elbowing my way to a wide open runway to get the right shot. Friends on Instagram and Vine are doing their job correctly by sending “Wish you were here” notes from the shows, with un baiser, a croissant, and after-parties to create the right dose of FOMO, sending me running to the nearest hospital. Nonetheless, I can still conjure my thoughts, see the trends, and see what everything is amped up for: the furs! the glitter! the frantic commentary! Even the high-fashion language excites me. Are you ready for the X Games of glamour?
From the blindingly high volume of looks that strut down the runways in Milan, and behind the smoke and mirrors, here is my breakdown.
The Show: Dolce and Gabbana
Footnotes: Rich red and gold patterns of Catholic-looking icons weave through the dazzling over-75 piece collection. Starting with golden mosaics from Sicily’s Cathedral, the show was regal with gold crowns, elaborate footwear, with compelling looks that are downright scandalous.
The Show: Prada.
Footnotes: Lug soles, tweed dresses, fur cuffs and “everything she likes” was up on the runway. She did a great job on producing a done-undone quality of the outfits, with tweed or beaded chiffon dresses dangling over drab cardigans, the garments left partly unbuttoned so they fell off shoulders. The midcentury silhouette, with deep fur cuffs on hard leather jackets and gray flannel suits, was another Prada favorite. Do take notice of those banal doctor bags. Full disclosure: I own one from the 1980’s, and I might just take it out of its webbed cloth bag next season.
The Show: Versace
The Footnotes: Donatella Versace’s fearless approach to clothing and design doesn’t fail in the terrific FW collection. Va Va Versace welcomes us back to the 1990’s featuring grunge and punk-rock infused looks from tartans and kilts to vinyl and plenty of other spiky hardware. The 90’s was casually offset by a nicely edited selection of animal-printed furs, tailored blazers, and classic overcoats. I am enamored with the spiked cowboy boots, and the oversized ear spears the size of a meat thermometer. A true sex-shop-leather fiery fashion show.
The Show: Marni
Footnotes: At Marni, fur trimmings add an unexpected twist to classic, structured silhouettes. The collection was as dark and austere as it was drenched in fur. The austerity was seen in masculine flannels and tweeds paired with riding boots. Softening the edge with feminine details like bustiers, and organza corsets, the clothes were incredibly sober. The fur accents saved the day appearing on lavish stoles to gloves, bags, and boots. Shag coats or yeti ruffs anyone?
The Show: Fendi
The Footnotes: Karl Lagerfeld’s 96th showing for the house restored the original Fendi insignia, FF which stands for Fun Furs, to its roots. With the fashion world completely surrendering to furs of all kinds this season, Lagerfeld met his match. It was Fendi’s moment to boldly go where no man could go before. Simply because, as Lagerfeld so crisply declared, “nobody does it better.”
The show rolled by in a hodgepodge of fur; it was on bags, bangles, belts, booties, and sunglasses. According to the show notes, there was also something called “leather feather fur,” which paid strict attention to leather, which was just as persuasive as its focus on fur. There were pieces that combined leather and feathery bits in a block pattern. Just that the natural can mutate into something entirely artificial seemed to embody the essence of FF Fendi.
If there was any show that I would have loved to have been to this season, this was the one. According to Karl, “fashion is almost always about illusion,” which makes him a creative master. That would be wonderful to watch in real-time.
Finally the pièce de résistance, were the furry sunglasses and the fox fur mohawks on top. Beyond accessories, they were the dramatic tie that paired so nicely with the clean lines of the white turtleneck and the single braid on the nape of the neck. And if that isn’t freakin’ FUN, I don’t know what is.
Stay tuned for what’s next, a quick jaunt to Paris.